TULUM MEXICO February 2025
- srather4
- Mar 6
- 10 min read
We are so blessed to travel with our adventure companions! Many people that hear of our adventures ask to be included, and on occasion, some have joined us successfully. Fellow BrightStar owner, George Sanchez (Austin, Texas) was one of those that we often traded adventure stories with. He’d done many similar trips with his son and was intrigued about our Kilimanjaro trek. We told him he’d have to travel to Wisconsin to meet the gang. The BrightStar Annual Conference was scheduled to be in Milwaukee in the fall of 2019, so George came a few days early and we hiked with him at Latham Peak. Of course, he fit in well with the group and we were all booked to climb Kilo in September 2020. We all know what happened next, so Kili was postponed until September 2021. The summer of 2021, we invited George to come up and hike 3 days of the Ice Age Trail with us, including camping with me, Jeff and Gary at the Dells of Eau Claire. After that, George really was an official part of the Magnificent Seven and if you’ve read the blog post from Kilimanjaro and our Tanzania safari, you’ll know our climb was a success and the safari was mindblowing!
Since then, George sold his BrightStar business and embarked on building an “Executive Retreat” in Tulum, Mexico. https://villatulumar.com/ He was born in Mexico and has dual citizenship, the only way it is possible to undertake such an endeavor (and even with that, he had many hassles). In the summer of 2022, George and his wife Kimberly joined our gang in Colorado where we were hiking 14ers and celebrating Tam’s 60th birthday. Kimberly joined us on a few day hikes, but was smart enough to decline the 14ers! At that time, George and Kimberly extended an invitation to our group to be among the first guests of their Mexican villa to help work out the kinks. Jeff and his son Ryan visited George in Mexico in the Fall of 2022 while Jeff was working on his SCUBA certification, and saw the work in progress. Our group planned to travel there in March 2023, the week after we were closing the sale of our Home Care business. In late January, George told the group we could still come, but it’d be “rustic.” Reason prevailed when Kimberly said it was a no go and we’d have to reschedule. I was determined to go to Tulum after the sale of our business anyway, so they recommended we stay at the Papaya Playa Project We spend a fabulous week there, and visited the unfinished villa and had a nice dinner with George and Kimberly during the week.
Fast-forward, the villa was finally finished and when we settled on mutual dates that worked for everyone that the trip was finally realized in February 2025.
Gary, Jeff and I arrived first. Since our trip in March 2023, the Tulum International Airport had opened so we arrived from Atlanta about 2pm, an easy day of travel. A driver was there to meet us, and we arrived at Villa Tulumar about 45 minutes later. George and Kimberly had arrived a few hours earlier and were still trying to get things back together from a wedding that had occurred there the week before. We were captivated by the finished product, and were given a brief tour and relaxed on the pool deck until the Rawhausers and Knickmeiers arrived around 4pm. It was fun to see their reactions and also see the staff in action as they greeted the newcomers with cool towels and cold drinks … much like we’d been greeted at the amazing Peruvian Lodges and on our Tanzania safaris.
They have a full time staff of six at the villa, live-in housekeeper (Lidia) and her husband Pedro who is the principal driver and maintenance man, Executive Chef Christian, Sous chef Jesus, Bartender and Entertainer Elmer (Mister Rodriguez), and another housekeeper, as well as many others working on painting and other upkeep that is necessary with a place right on the ocean. The staff were engaging and enthusiastic, and had such pride in their work. They really made the trip extra special!
Besides many beautiful and wonderful meals and cocktails, we had a fun and active week. Highlights were:
group yoga session on the rooftop with Jenna
walks along the beach, kayaking and paddle boarding, lounging and swimming at the pool
90-minute deep tissue massages on the rooftop
A mariachi band to entertain us after dinner one night
a trip to the Biosphere Reserve Sian Ka’an (translates to “where heaven starts” in Mayan) where we explored the flora and fauna of the reserve, swam in the ocean, had a thrilling boat ride through the mangroves and then floated along with the current through a Mayan canal (see notes below)
Snorkeling in a Cenote (limestone cave), Dos Ojos (also see below)
Tam and George SCUBA’d three times, once out off the reef in front where they spear-fished and we ate ceviche with their fresh catch at lunch that day! Tam obtained a deep-water certification during her dives there that week.
The gang spent a day touring Chichen Itza, a Mayan Ruin about two hours away. Jeff and I, and George and Kimberly had already been, so we stayed back at the villa. Their trip was made extra special as Pedro, who is Mayan and grew up near the ruin, drove them there. When they arrived, they were greeted by a pre-arranged guide and they insisted that Pedro tour with them. Even though he grew up nearby, he’d only been inside once when he was a child. They had a fantastic tour, then stopped in Pedro’s hometown for an authentic lunch.
It’s really impossible to describe how amazing the food was, but I have 100 photos on my phone if you ever want to see the photos! Breakfast each day was fresh fruit, yogurt and granola, some kind of bread or homemade donuts, and then an entre such as omelets, chilaquiles, migas, huevos rancheros. Lunch was generally a Mexican dish such a tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, generally served with fresh guacamole and cold beer. Once we had ceviche made from the fish that George had speared while diving that morning, and once we had hamburgers and fries that were also out of this world. We’d start cocktails before dinner, generally with a margarita for me. The bartender, Elmer, was so much fun and served the drinks with a mischievous smile. Dinner was generally a beautiful presentation of soup, followed by entrees such as seafood paella, lobster and steak, seafood, sushi, and more, and of course, it was all followed with a beautiful and tasty dessert. Besides the fact that the food was dazzling and delicious, it was prepared and presented with love by Chefs Christian and Jesus. The joy in their faces as they described to us what we were served was just so incredible!
The time went by too fast, and we were sad to leave Villa Tulumar and the staff that cared for us this week.
The villa has a concierge (Kathryn, George and Kimberly’s daughter) that assists with menu planning, beverage availability, books extras such as massage, yoga and scuba, and also arranges for optional tours. Since we were on the “friends plan,” George used us as “guinea pigs” to try two additional tours they’re thinking of adding to their portfolio (we gave them both two thumbs up)!
Biosphere Reserve Sian Ka’an
The only downside to this tour was the drive. The reserve is just south of the resort district of Tulum, and it was interesting to drive through that again. But once you enter the reserve, you need to drive about 3 miles down a terribly rutted / pothole-filled road to get to where the tour starts. We remarked that it would have been faster and more comfortable to walk rather than be bounced around in the Suburban, but it was very warm, and we’d have regretted that too.
The reserve is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that covers over 2000 square miles. If you look at a map of Tulum, you’ll see the large lagoon that makes up a good portion of the reserve, and the area where we did our tour. From the description, we had no idea what to expect! We split our group into two boats, and soon we were motoring out across the lagoon. The water was a mixture of fresh and salt, but much clearer than any “brackish” water I’d been on before. Our driver said we were heading to the cenote, to look for manatee. Cenotes are fresh water filled sink holes that were created when cave roofs collapsed. I couldn’t quite fathom cenotes in this lagoon, but sure enough there were many. The drivers could find them mainly because of the slight change in the color of the water. We’d get close, and then the manatees would come to the surface to breathe – so cool. After that, we drove across the vast lagoon and scoured the shore looking for crocodiles under the mangroves. Next, we wound through some narrow channels and observed many nesting osprey and an island with lots of different kinds of birds including, heron, frigatebird, roseate spoonbill and pelicans. Our guide said the bird population is just beginning to return, having been blown away by the most recent hurricane.
We drove around a bit more, and under a bridge and the boats beached where the river system connects to the Caribbean Sea. We got out and walked the beach a bit and found it to be the lightest and finest sand any of us had ever seen! Due to the way the waves were breaking at the river opening, there were sand bars built up in the sea – it was so amazing. George and I tried to swim, but you had to go out so far to get to deep enough water – crazy!!
Back in the boats, we were now headed for the “Mayan Canal.” The reserve contains 23 known archeological sites of the Mayan civilization. Our guide tried to describe the canal system that he said the Mayan would use to transport things to Central America. Some manmade, but most were natural rivers. The boat ride there was fun. We were the only boats there, and they were driving very fast up a very winding mangrove-lined river. After about 15 minutes, we got to a dock, where we tied up. Our driver told us to walk the boardwalk (about 1/3 mile), jump in the canal and float back to the boats. The boardwalk was in rough shape, but we’re hikers after all! When we got to the end, there was another very old Mayan house ruin there, we explored that for a bit, then jumped in for our float. Our driver described it as a “lazy river,” and it did have quite a strong current. It was amazingly clean, fresh water. We could see the bottom and fish and crabs. I tried not to think of crocodiles as we floated along, but we were a loud bunch and I figured there was safety in numbers. Just like when we hike, Gary was way ahead of the group!
We’d gotten a late start due to morning massages and lunch, so by the time we were back in the boats, daylight was beginning to fade! We drove back up the winding river and out onto the lagoon, then at full speed, reaching the dock just as the sun was setting. We all agreed it was a really amazing adventure!!
Cenote - Dos Ojos
Cenotes are sink holes entrances and we saw signs for many as we travelled around the area, in fact, there is one just a block from the Villa.
This area was an ancient coral reef in the last ice age. As ice melted and seas formed, cave systems formed. As rain filters through the limestone, it picked up chemicals forming stalagmites and stalactites by a rate of 0.4” every thousand years! As the seas raised, the caves flooded.
There are no freshwater rivers above ground on the Yucatán peninsula, but the cenotes are generally fresh water. Some have an outlet to the sea and get a layer of salt water on the bottom and fresh water on top - you can see the layers, as they don’t mix! There are 600 miles of dive-able caves mapped so far in the Yucatan.
Dos Ojos (Two Eyes) is part of a flooded cave system that runs 51 miles with 28 Cenote entrances. It was perfect for us as Tam and George could SCUBA while the rest of us snorkeled. We paid the entrance fee, and then another fee to the snorkel guide. They had good quality masks and fins, and disposable snorkels that worked just fine. Most of us used their shortie wetsuits and were comfortable in the 77 degree water. I kept my long sleeve rash guard underneath the wetsuit and that worked out great.
I’m generally not a fan of caves, but this was remarkable. Our guide walked us over to a “training area,” a mostly open cave where we could test out the equipment. After a few minutes there, we walked to the main cave entrance and jumped in. It was a little crowded in spots, and we had to pay attention to follow our guide. In addition to the gear, we’d each been issued a “torch,” a waterproof flashlight that came in handy as we traversed through some narrow passages between the caves. It was also good that they insisted we wear life preservers, as with mostly fresh water, I wasn’t as buoyant as I am when snorkeling in the sea!! Like in the Reserve, the water was exceptionally clear – rainwater is filtered through the limestone and there is very little soil development in the area.
One of the coolest phenomena was seeing the divers many meters below us, and the light of their torches would highlight the depth and contours of the underwater caves. Another way this was different than snorkeling along a reef was I’d get a kink in my neck as I kept trying to look up to keep from crashing my head into the cave wall. We traversed a narrow passage and ended up in an enclosed cave with a large bat population – that was surprising! Not sure how they get in and out, but I’m sure it wasn’t as enclosed as it appeared to us. Another fun adventure, and another first for the Magnificent Seven!!
Closing Poem, by Dan (AKA Hiker #7)
BEHIND THE TULUMAR DOOR
A gleaming oceanside outpost rises
Under the brow of two navigating sorts
Built from this thing called “franchises”
And some surprising pain at the ports
Sanchez family and friends gather
One named Rather and one named Tews
Rawhausers and Molz, sometimes in pews
Knickmiers though, still under the snooze
A kaleidoscope of gastronomy
Seeding the local economy
Lobster, Ribs, Mole and Sushi
Ever-expanding my friend named Tushy
Chilaquiles, Tacos
And the richest of soup
All for this fortunate
And appreciative group
Cochinita pibil,
Just one more bite if I can muster the will
An unmatched show of elegance in this writer’s view
Muchas gracias and Merci beaucoup
Snorkeling and SCUBA
On Tam’s forehead a gooba
Cenotes plus ocean
This trip a most elegant potion
Chichen Itza, Sian Ka’an,
And the island of birds
This excursion can’t be described
Using only words
So, behind the Tulumar door
Beyond our dreams and so much more
The mosaic of love and talent shines bright
Family, friends and staff unite
Kimberly’s wisdom and smile so fair
And George with kindness beyond compare
Farewell for now … WOW!
Signed, Five Star Hiker #7
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